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The Vaka Taumako Project of
the Pacific Traditions Society


 
   Notes from the Solomon Islands        
          June, 2008   by Larry Willliamson
          (Pictures below)

Dr. Larry Sherrer, an ophthalmologist here on Kauai, his daughter Chantay, a film student at Univ. of Calif., Northridge and I left Kauai around the first of June.

Our first stop was Honiara, the Capital of the Solomon Islands. From there we took a two-prop airplane to Lata, the Temotu Provincial Capital, about 400 miles east.

There we met Rik Allen, a community developement specialist from Australia. We piled in a small boat and went around the island of Nendo looking for Ross Hepworth's cargo ship to take us to the Reef Islands, about 30 miles northeast.

We went into several long bays, lined with mangrove trees, with the most beautiful emerald green water I have ever seen. I learned later the the mangrove bays are where the crocodiles are: I didn't see any...

We found the ship and stayed overnight in the Melanesian village of Nanggu. Dr. Larry took a picture of the children and they ran off terrified when the camera flashed.

We left for the Reefs around 3AM. The ship's wake was a display of lights created by the phosphorescence of tiny sea creatures. We arrived in the Reefs at dawn and met Mimi George and Meph Wyeth. Meph went back to Lata and Mimi joined us.

Ben Hepworth, Ross's brother, captained a small outboard boat to the Duff Islands. Lots of flying fish. I thought it was a rough trip. Mimi, the seasoned sailor that she is, said it was the smoothest trip she had ever taken to the Duffs. Chantay and I pretended we were on an amusement park thrill ride and so had fun.

Dr. Larry, as they called him, to not mix up the two Larrys, examined well over 100 people and gave out glasses. He found several people with cataracts and plans to return in a year and 1/2 to operate. Chantay took 20 hours of good quality video. She plans to produce a documentary. Copies of the video tapes will go to the Vaka Taumako Project archives. I took over 300 photos and some sound recordings, including a 3 hour story of Lata. Ariki Kaveia pointed out navigation stars and Mimi recorded their names and positions on a computerized star finder.

The people on Taumako live basically the same as they did 2000 years ago. There are a few solar panels and rain water tanks and English is spoken by the young people. The older people speak a dialect of Polynesian and pidgin. I had trouble … sometimes I would nod my head and hope that the person wasn't asking me a question.

Taumako is one of the few remaining paradises left in the world. Most people there are heathy, happy, kind, generous and caring. On Taumako the people are aware of the good life they have and are proud of their island, but there is a desire for a more modern life. Desire brings discontent. Paradise is a state of mind not a place. Some things could improve the life on the island: how do you give a community modern medicine, electricity, and education without losing paradise? The core of the question is as old as Adam and Eve.

I enjoyed seeing people that had come to Hawaii in the past, especially Jennifer, Jonas, and Te Matua (Keveia), The people I met for the first time are new friends. The people I traveled with – Larry, Chantay, Mimi, Rik, and Stanley formed a bond with our shared experiences.

We left Taumako in the same small boat a few days early because of a lull in the ocean waves. Even then, the waves on the 5 hour trip back to the Reefs looked like mountains. Even Mimi commented on the waves.

We stayed in the Reefs for a few relaxing days then took a boat to Lata and a plane to Honiara.

In Honiara we met Rick Feinberg, an anthropologist at Kent State, his wife and son. they were on their way to the Duffs. Mimi and Rick are doing research together under a grant from the National Science Foundation. I palled around with my good friend Dixon.

On the way back, at Fiji, Dr. Larry, Chantay and Mimi went on to Hawaii while I went to New Zealand. I had a great time there! I want to go back in the summer (our winter) and see the places where they filmed The Lord of the Rings on the South Island.

There are so many more things to tell you … Too many things I have to think about. Maybe someday.



 
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Lagoon - Kahula Village
 Lagoon-KahulaVillage.jpg

Lagoon on Taumako, Duff Islands in the Solomon islands. The boat with the outboard motor is the one we traveled in for 65 miles to get to Taumako from the Reef Islands.
Beach - Kahula
 Beach-Kahula.jpg

Photo taken just outside the leaf house where I slept.
Beach - Kahula Village
 Beach-Kahula2.jpg

Another view of the same beach, looking Northeast towards Tohua Island
Tohua Island
 TohuaIsland.jpg

Tohua Island where Lata, the first Polynesian voyager, was born.

Ngauta Village Houses
 NgautaVillageHouses.jpg

Ngauta Village on the south part of Taumako.
Jonas Hollani
 JonasHollani.jpg

Chief Jonas Hollani, father of Dixon Wia, at a church festival, the day after we arrived on Taumako.

Health Clinic
 HealthClinic.jpg

Health Clinic in Ngauta Village where ophthalmologist Dr. Larry Sherrer checked the people's vision.
Tetoli School
 TetoliSchool.jpg

Tetoli School near the village of Ngauta. This is for grades 1–6.

I promised the headmaster two computers loaded with educational programs.

Jennifer & Family
 Jennifer&Family.jpg

Jennifer was in Kauai, Hawaii for three months in the year 2000. She came to visit with me every day I was on Taumako.

Jennifer & Chantay
 Jennifer&Chantay.jpg

Jennifer and Chantay.
Jennifer & Larry
 Jennifer&Larry.jpg

Jennifer introduced me to all her friends as "My Hawaiian father".

Soccer & NetBall - Ngaua
 Soccer&NetBall-Ngauta.jpg

Dr. Larry played goalie in the soccer match, while Chantay played netball with the women.
Larry & Rik
 Larry&Rik.jpg

Dr. Larry Sherrer and Rik Allen.
Leaf Houses - Kahula
 LeafHouses-Kahula.jpg

On the right is the leaf house of Fox Boda. On the left is the cooking house that serves the Boda family, including his married sons and daughters. Fox's son lives in the house in the center. Fox was our host and we ate our meals with him and his wife.
RadioShack-Kahula
 RadioShack-Kahula.jpg

This is where I slept. Notice the modern facilities on the right.
Hale Vaka - Kahula
 HaleVaka-Kahula.jpg

Hale Vaka – There are 3 voyaging canoes in this canoe house.
Meeting At Hale Vaka
 MeetingAtHaleVaka.jpg

Meeting with chiefs and other principal citizens of Taumako to discuss the future. To the left of center is 98 year old Ariki Koloso Kaveia. the principal source in the world for traditional voyaging, Right of center is Honorable Stanley, dressed up as always in tennis shoes. Stanley is the 2nd highest official in the Temotu Province Government. Stanley was with us for the three weeks we were in the Solomon Islands.

Launching the Vaka
 LaunchingVaka.jpg

Moving the canoe on rollers from the hale vaka to the beach.
Aboard the Vaka
 AboardVaka.jpg

We took a short trip on a traditional sailing canoe. Three canoes have been built on Taumako in recent years using traditional materials and using methods that have been handed down for perhaps more than 2,000 years. Before 1993 everyone thought this knowledge had been lost forever.
19Larry Aboard Vaka
 LarryAboardVaka.jpg

Here the intrepid explorer scans the unknown far horizon.

The ride was very smooth since the hull slices through the waves rather than riding over them.
Vaka Sail
 VakaSail.jpg

The lauhala sail is more efficient than the best modern yachting sails.
Sherrers Aboard Vaka
 SherrersAboardVaka.jpg

Dr. Larry and Chantay behind captain Fox Boda
Vaka in Lagoon
 Vaka-Lagoon.jpg

The vaka in the Taumako lagoon.
Fox
 Fox.jpg

Fox with his grandson
Larry Thinking
 LarryThinking.jpg

Here I am working on a difficult community development problem.
Chantay Dreaming
 Chantay.jpg

Chantay dreaming.
Barton & Larry with Crab
 Barton-Larry-Crab.jpg

Barton Vehu and Larry with a crab that Barton caught. The crab was still alive so I was nervous about getting too close.
Reef Islands Resort
 ReefIslandsResort.jpg

Mimi George, Chantay and Dr. Larry at the Ngarando Resort on Pigeon Island in the Reef Islands. Each room had a real shower (cold water). Our gracious host, Ben Hepworth, made our stay here very enjoyable.
Tide at Reef Islands
 Tide-Reefs.jpg

You can walk to the neighbor islands at low tide in the Reef Islands.
Star Fish
 StarFish.jpg

There are a lot of these blue star fish in the Reefs.
Dixon
 Dixon.jpg

Dixon Wia at the King Solomon Hotel in Honiara. Dixon was on Kauai in 1999 for 3 months. He came by the hotel at 8am every day and he and I roamed around Honiara for 3 days. He and his family are in Honiara where his son Hollani is getting medical treatment so that he can walk – thanks to a generous donation from my friend Renate and the German organization, Verein zur Foerderung kultureller Traditionen.

Auckland Sky Tower
 AucklandSkyTower.jpg

View from the top of the Auckland New Zealand Sky Tower. A cold front came through the day I arrived - around 35-40 degrees in the mornings. I borrowed one of Brian's jackets. Quite a contrast with Honiara's 95 degree 100% humidity. Taumako was a very comfortable 80 degrees.
Brian & Liz at Waitomo, NZ
 Brian&Liz-WaitomoNZ.jpg

Brian and Liz at Waitomo, NZ. Brian and I were good friends on Kauai for about 10 years. I was best man at their wedding. We went around New Zealand in their car for six days. Here we are in Waitomo where we visited the caves.
Rotorua NZ
 Rotorua.jpg

Rotorua is very geologically active. You could see volcanic steam vents all over the town. We stayed two nights here.
Eastern New Zealand
 EasternNZ.jpg

Everywhere we went there were green hills and mountains.
Bay of Islands, NZ
 BayOfIslandsNZ.jpg

Bay of Islands in Eastern New Zealand.

Bay of Islands, NZ
 BayOfIslandsNZ2.jpg

Another view of the Bay of Islands.
JoJo, Larry, and Mark
 JoJoLarryMark.jpg

JoJo and Mark are friends of Brian and Liz. They visited Kauai in December, 2006 and we became friends.



 

Vaka Taumako Project of the
Pacific Traditions Society

PO Box 712
Capt. Cook, HI 96704

Phone (808) 936-8462    
FAX    (808) 823-6741    
Email:
 george.mimi@gmail.com


The Vaka Taumako Project operates under the aegis of the Pacific Traditions Society, a 501(c)3, non-profit organization. Monetary and some other donations are tax-deductible in the USA.

In Germany, donations for the VTP are tax deductible if you donate to the Verein zur Foerderung kultureller Traditionen (a non-profit organization) under the key word "Vaka Taumako Project". For address and bank account information see  www.traditionen.org





  Contacts

Dr. Mimi George, Principal Investigator
Mailing address:
Dr. Mimi George and Paramount Chief K. Kaveia
P.O. Box 712, Capt. Cook, HI 96704 USA
email:  vaka@aloha.net
Phone 001 808 936 8462

H. M. Wyeth, Permanent Secretary
Phone 001 808 822 0647
FAX 001 808 823 6741

Larry Williamson, President,
The Pacific Traditions Society
email:  larryw@hawaiian.net



  To get onto our mailing list and/or to send in a contribution, please mail your name, address, email address, and phone / fax to Mimi George at the address above.

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Updated 07/28/08